Transition walks - from a seascape to the Karoo

• Walking log: 30 January

A walk to close out our summer in Cape Town. 11km along Seapoint to Bantry Bay and return.

Total kilometres to date: 166km

Summer Road Trip:
We are on the road, driving back to Johannesburg, having been away for 2 months and we stopped in the Karoo to overnight at Steenbokkie Nature Reserve.

The humid heat has been replaced by the dry crisp but dusty Karoo air.  The only greenery on the walk was the cactus plants and the odd vividly green tree. Our walking route took us parallel to the mountains around Beaufort West. Lovely setting for a walk before heading to Bloemfontein.

Karoo scenery around Beaufort West.

• Walking log: 31 January

Early morning walk along the dirt tracks of Steenbokkie Nature Reserve.

10 km, noticed the soles of my feet are sensitive, must take care not to get my blisters under the calluses.

Total kilometres to date: 176

"In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks." 
John Muir

To walk: to withdraw

'We withdraw not to disappear, but to find another ground from which to see; a solid ground from which to step, and from which to speak again, in a different way, a clear, rested, embodied voice, our life as a sudden, emphatic statement, one we can recognize as our own and one from which now, we have absolutely no wish to withdraw.'

‘WITHDRAWAL’ From CONSOLATIONS:
The Solace, Nourishment and Underlying Meaning of Everyday Words. © David Whyte and Many Rivers Press 2015

I felt a moment of clarity reading David Whyte's thoughts on withdrawal, I have been experiencing this withdrawal and I love the sentiment of finding another ground from which to see.

I am using the daily discipline of walking as my solid ground and this finding of another ground will no doubt evolve in ways I cannot predict.

• Walking log: 29th January

Muizenberg - Kalk Bay return.

A return to a gentle place to walk, to ease the muscles from yesterdays power walk. 

Did some speed walking between light poles too.

Total kilometres to date: 155

Post Script: Evening yoga class that Natalie organised at the Sufi Temple, Claremont. Teacher was Brigitta, Yogapoise, I felt taught for the first time. I am slowly been drawn in to practice yoga.

Newlands Forest to Rhodes Memorial hike

Another clear, warm summer morning in Cape Town and we spent it hiking from Newlands Forest to Rhodes Memorial for breakfast before walking on down and back to our car.

It's almost 3km from the car park up to the Contour Path, I felt fine on the way up, did not need to stop either, so it was a good power walk.

The boardwalk along the contour path, mostly in the shade is always a highlight and stopping for water at the picnic spot a treat.

The Pink Hairy Heath (Erica hirtiflora) are in full bloom on the mountain and a highlight along the way.

• Walking log: 27th January

Morning stroll while birding at Rondevlei Nature Reserve.

Load shedding evening walk for salads at Michael's. 

Total kilometres to date: 140

• Walking log: 28th January

9.5 km round hike through Newlands Forest, along the Contour Path and boardwalk, down to Rhodes Memorial for breakfast before walking down to the car.

Felt the impact of this walk, awareness of knees from the downhill, overall weariness all day. Can still not imagine 30 km in one day.

Total kilometres to date: 149.5

Farm walk: Swallow Hill Farm

Beauty of the Overberg in summer, walking the fields.

The week started with a much cooler morning in Greyton, slightly overcast and a relief from the 40
degrees we had experienced over the weekend.

After the usual huge
mug of plunger coffee and a rusk we walked the perimeter farm path and the short sharp incline which kicks off the walk certainly got me going.

My thighs were still feeling the effect of the Loerkop Trail and they felt heavy.

The path also took us into the indigenous renosterveld on the hill behind the house, which is small leaved evergreen shrubland only found here in the Cape.

I joined Bri and Di at the Under the Mountain Yoga Studio in Greyton, a cottage with a restful yoga space. It was a class with Jonathan Blumberg.

What a pleasure to work on the floor, my feet loved me, it was a class within the Iyengar system and I found it harnessed my breath and relaxed me.
A gentle but tough one and a half hours.

• Walking log: 26th January

4.5 km walk around Swallow Hill wine farm. 

And stepping into the maze between the rows of tempranillo and viognier grapes.

Yoga class.

Total kilometres to date: 134

It is not easy to walk alone in the country without musing upon something. ~Charles Dickens

Loerkop Trail, Greyton

'Walk some hills' is an instruction from our Ultra Walk guide, so we did. 

And what a hill.

Loerkop. 
A 3km circular trail.


It was a 1.6 km steep climb to the top of Loerkop which was marked with a cairn. 

The 360-degree view makes the steep hike worthwhile: the whole chain of the Riviersonderend mountains is spread from east to west, with Greyton and Genadendal in sheltered positions. 

The Overberg wheat belt a gentle dull brown wherever you look and to the south the massive Swartberg. 


We could also see Bri and Di's home along the Krige Road from the cairn.

• Walking log: 25th January

Some power walking to get the heart rate up and build strength. And my steepest walk to date, I had to stop a couple of times to catch my breath. We then walked the remaining 4km from Loerkop into Greyton for stamina.

The heat was draining along the last part of the walk, not ideal at all. 

Welcome swimming afterwards.

Walking companions: Brian and Dianne Dawes.

Total kilometres to date: 129.5

A Greyton farm road

Summer in the Overberg.

Hot and dry with a wind rolling down the mountainside that dries eyes and clothes instantly.

A morning walk into Greyton for coffee and the Saturday Market.

Long dusty farm roads, the golden hues of the lands lying fallow until the fall rains start.

Pretty cows and small herds of Grey Rhebuck entertain along the walk.

Watching a pair of Blue Cranes raising their chick on the farm is quite wonderful as is seeing Denham's Bustards flying on the lands.

All the time the mountains a magnificent backdrop.

• Walking log: 24th January

8 km walk along the Krige farm road from Swallow Hill wine farm to Greyton.
Swimming to relieve a tired, hot body.

Walking companions: Brian and Dianne Dawes

Total kilometres to date: 122.5

A walking meditation

"Each step a step towards and equally its own step"

from Sharon Wakeford

I can step out of our garden flat and walk around Rondebosch Common with it's grand views of Table Mountain.

And that is what I did this morning. 

I notice that I motivate a walk to Fred and then he sets the pace and I follow. Today he left early to so some work so I stepped out solo.

I did 3 rotations around the Common paying attention to my posture and my breathing.

As best I could I approached the walk as a walking meditation with deliberate steps and soft eyes.

• Walking log: 22nd January

3 laps of the Common, 8km. 

Total kilometres to date: 114.5

First 100 kilometres of preparation...

A small milestone reached on our Seapoint Promenade walk this morning, the first 100 kilometres of preparation completed.

Yet another perfect early morning in Cape Town, walking along the shoreline with mountain and sea views makes walking a joy.

I am thinking of a message from my friend Sharon and say thanks for the encouragement:

" Traveller there is no path, the path is made by walking" 

You my good friend know how to make the path.

• Walking log: 21st January

Notched up the walk to 12km this morning at a nice steady pace. Can feel my stamina improving, feet did start to feel 'burny' towards the end.

Total kilometres to date: 106.5

Rest and a brisk warm up walk.

I start my week with another David Whyte poem:

REST AS READINESS

It was rest then, felt as sheer readiness, and the place 

you went to find it, impossible to say, some artful way 

the body looks for just repose after days of walking, …

your body dedicated to anticipation, and to going on,

as if the way ahead had been made only for your feet,

and the breeze as a hand on your back all along, 

the path inside you a parallel that was not a parallel, 

some internal invisible way you had to follow; 

and always with you, a listening in:

an echo in the dark to take along the lighted road.

Excerpted from ‘REST’  

From PILGRIM: Poems by David Whyte

©2012 David Whyte revised Jan: 2015

Registration forms are in and the deposit has been paid.

301 Namaquland Eco Ultra Walk here we come.

I received an outline of a training program from Eco Ventures and I like their sentiment - enjoy the training it is part of your journey.

I had a delicious rest day yesterday, I was even in heals and a skirt, having lunch with special people. My body loved the break and also loved the Dom Pedro.

So this evening we started the weeks training with a brisk power walk over 4 kilometres around the Common and the neighbouring suburb. 

I will need to pay attention to their three components - stamina, power and speed and build it into our preparation

Stamina:   Distance 3 times per week	One to one and a half hours of brisk walking
Power: Walk some hills twice a week	Short 50m stretches of walking uphill
Speed: To enjoy your trip and the scenery	Do fast power walking between alternate telephone poles once a week

• Walking log: 20th January

Short 4km walk at a brisk pace of 10.1 minutes per km.

Total kilometres to date: 94.5

       Example of one week’s training:

Day	Training	Time - min	km
Mon	Stamina: Distance - brisk walking at one speed	60 -75	6 - 8
Tues	Power: 15 min easy walking before and after power training. 4-6 X 50-75m hills or 6-8 X 30m stairs	50 -60	4 - 6
Wed	Stamina: Distance - brisk walking at one speed	60 - 90	7 - 10
Thurs	Speed: 15 min easy walking before and after power training. X2 50m ; X2 100m ; X2 200m X2 400m ; X1 600m	60 – 75	6 - 8
Fri	Short easy walk	50 - 60	7
Sat	Stamina: Distance - brisk walking at one speed	120 - 150	14 - 18
Son	Rest

Footprints on the Noordhoek Beach

A beach with attitude and history.

The story of a shipwreck, the Kakapo, May 1900, en route to New Zealand, the captain took a sharp left thinking he was already around Cape Point! An interesting landmark along Long Beach, an iconic beach walk, I have yet to find a better one anywhere on my travels.

Glorious flat firm white sand at low tide, Kommetjie Lighthouse coming into view as one walks, the sweep of the shallow bay and the mountains rising straight from the sea on the Hout Bay side of the walk.

The sunday morning craziness  at the Noordhoek Farm Village did not detract from a memorable breakfast of salmon, goat's cheese, perfectly poached soft eggs at the Foodbarn Restaurant.

• Walking Log: 18th January

Early morning beach walking does not come better, 8.5 km return from the Noordhoek Beach
parking.

Perfect conditions, light breeze.
Felt good, even though I had a restless night with achy legs.

Walking companions: Brian and Dianne Dawes, Greyton

Total kilometres to date: 90.5

Social Walking

A day to walk with special friends. Bri and Di drove from Greyton to spend the weekend here in Cape Town, we parked our cars and spent the day walking. A visit to the Old Biscuit Mill, fresh produce for a vegetarian meal and just generally pottering around the shops and stalls.

A beautiful stroll - not unlike the Italian tradition of 'fare una passeggiata', around our Common with a sunset behind Table Mountain and lively conversation with friends to end the day.

• Walking log: 17th January

11 km of urban strolling with friends. Day 5 of non-stop walking, I was feeling the impact of the 5 days in a row, rather heavy sluggish legs, knees tired too.

Walking companions: Brian and Dianne Dawes, Greyton.

Total kilometres to date: 82

From Fodor's: As day softens into dusk in Italy, something in the air seems to tug people from their homes and workplaces to participate in one of the enduring traditions of Italian life: la passeggiata. This evening promenade, generally between 5 and 8 PM, occurs in virtually every town, village, or big city in Italy.

Mountain trails: Pipe Track

What has taken us so long to walk Pipe Track, one of the best known hikes in Cape Town? According to Mike Lundy's book, "Easy Walks in the Cape Peninsula" its also one of the oldest with work starting on laying the pipeline in 1887.

The rain last night refreshed the mountain air, the Orange-breasted Sunbirds were out in numbers among the yellow proteas still in bloom along the path and we were serenaded by boubou's too. The path is undulating, at times rocky underfoot and has wonderful views of the Atlantic Coastline and the Twelve Apostles. 

• Walking log: 16th January 

An 11 kilometer return mountain path above Camps Bay, starting from the parking at Kloof Nek to the steps ascending Slangolie Ravine. Privilege to be out and about, lovely walk.

Total kilometres to date: 71

Walking the trails: Lions Head

One of the things I love about Cape Town is the unpredictable weather. After the sweltering heat of the last few days, today is overcast with a cool breeze.

The destination this morning was Lions Head, at times we had no visibility at all along the contour path walk and then we would round a corner for magnificent views across towards Robben Island, Seapoint and Camps Bay.

The quality of the light and the interplay with the mist was a treat. As was the ochre and rust colours of the brush that was caught in a feld fire among the greenery of the proteas.

I decided to add in the steep access trail to Lions Head once we had finished the contour path, to make it a more strenuous walk. I was breathing heavily but kept the pace and did not stop.

The coffee at Melissa's in Kloof Street was perfect as was the nibble of an orange and date muffin.

• Walking log: 15th January

Shorter, undulating walk along the contour path around Lions Head. Then the steep ascent to Lions Head to get heart rate up. Great walk in the cool mist. 7.6 km along mountain trails.
Yoga.

Total kilometers to date: 60

Kalk Bay summer walking

Another perfect early morning here in Cape Town to be doing our Ultra Walk preparation.

Back to a favourite the Muizenberg to Kalk Bay and return walk, which we stretched to 11 km today, with a stop at C'est la Vie for crispy baguette straight from the oven with brie, bacon and rocket.

• Walking log: Wednesday 14th January

Upped the pace slightly this morning along the 11 km walk. Body holding up.
Awareness around the left knee. Feet seem fine.
Swim for cool down and feet exercises.

Total kilometres to date: 52.4

Seapoint Promenade

It was a pleasure to be part of the early morning activity along the Seapoint Promenade, runners, walkers, joggers, park exercisers, parachutists, dog and baby walkers, swimmers. And also people doing nothing but just taking in a beautiful early morning.

Perfect conditions, fresh breeze off the sea, fog not burnt off yet and I felt energised after my day off.

I particularly enjoy the art installations along the Promenade and I was pleased to see a new piece beyond the Seapoint swimming pool; a full size bronze daybed on a painted carpet.

Found a great spot for my cappuccino, Bootlegger Coffee Company in Seapoint's Regent Road, early morning coffee special for only R12.

• Walking log: Tuesday 13th January

Training was stepped up by 10% this morning. An 11 km walk from Green Point along the Seapoint Promenade to Bantry Bay and return.

Total kilometers to date:  41.4

Walking and yoga

"Feet love walks, rubs, movement and attention" 

I saw this while researching yoga and walking this morning. It is my feet that give me the most concern as I go into my preparation for my Ultra Walk and they do not always love walking.

On a walk through the hills of Girona in Spain a few years ago, I had to give up about half way through the trip because of blisters that had formed below my callouses on the soles of both of my feet. It was so hard to see the group leave in the morning and so hard to be left behind.

Today is my rest day.

Keeping out the sun, hydrating, I am barefoot, treating my feet, stretching them and the lower leg muscles.

I want to add yoga into my routine and preparation, so I took out my mat, and followed some suggested poses for walkers.

I hope that by practicing these yoga poses that strengthen and stretch the muscles, joints and connective tissue of the foot and ankle, my foot health, posture and overall health will improve.

"Treat your feet well and your body will appreciate you."

Forest paths: Newlands Forest

The morning started cooler and overcast, just perfect to be hiking in the Newlands Forest on the eastern slopes of Table Mountain, which give or take a road or two or three, is our backyard here in Cape Town. 

There is something so restful about the toned down palette of a forest walk. I was surrounded by early morning bird calls but kept my focus on the paths, the switchbacks that slowly but surely climb to the Woodcutters Trail and then onto the wonderful Contour Path which traverses Table Mountain. Every now and again the forest opens up and we had lovely views of the Southern Suburbs.

The intention of the walk this morning was to get the heart rate up and to start our preparation for the more strenuous days of our Ultra Walk, which will be the Kamies Pass and the trails through the Cedarberg Mountains. 

Mission accomplished, I was breathing hard at times as the switchbacks steepen into stairs on the way up.

So I have now walked 30 km in 3 days, I have a sense of the distance, now just need to work up to doing that in a day, and then doing that for 10 days in a row....

• Walking log: Sunday 11th January

Training today was a 10.4 km hike in Newlands Forest, from the Reservoir, along the paths, steps and boardwalks of the Woodcutters Trail and the Contour Path, to the edge of Kirstenbosch before heading back down to the parking lot. Strenuous at times and got the heart rate up.

Felt strong.
We walked without stopping.
Total kilometres to date: 30.4

Fred has a Polar Integrated GPS Sports Watch which we are using to track our stats. The software is so cool and the GPS function generates a map of the walk.

So nice, I can see Fred playing around for hours telling me how and what I have or haven't done!

Urban pavements: Old Biscuit Mill, Woodstock

Old Biscuit Mill, sensory delights.

Saturday in Cape Town is market day and one of the best around is the Neighbour Goods Market at the Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock, a fascinating urban renewal project which is vibrant, arty, has fresh produce, good food and trendy retailing.

Instead of taking the car, we walked. Fortunately we bumped into our neighbour and she took the shopping home for us.

I am looking at a lovely bunch of proteas as I write.

• Walking log: Saturday 10th January

Training today was a 10 km walk from the flat to Old Biscuit Mill, Woodstock and back via a piece of the Rondebosch Common.
Walk: Urban pavements.
Awareness after 2 two days of walking 10 km; left knee, feet feeling tired. Swim to ease heavy legs and cool down.
Total kilometres to date: 20

On the road: early morning Muizenberg - St James - Fish Hoek

This stretched canvas photograph that I bought for our Cape Town flat captures an amazing moment at the old Kalk Bay lighthouse, which has stood solidly since 1919: a massive wall of water caused by a spring tide hitting the pier at a right angle.

Hands down walking to this lighthouse from Muizemberg is one of my favourite walks here in Cape Town. 

So it feel right that this walk marks the start of my 6 months of preparation for my Ultra Walk.

The first stretch of the walk to St. James is along a seaside concrete path.

The sea sparkled this morning, the salty spray from the high tide catching me every now and again. The Southern Black-backed Gulls were abundant but I missed seeing and hearing the African Black Oystercatchers.

The iconic colourful wooden beach shacks are a highlight as are all the quirky shops along Kalk Bay, I was feeling pulled to do some clothes shopping, but it will have to be another time.

This walk also comes with great food options, our two favourites in Kalk Bay are C'est le Vie and Olympia, and both deliver on great cappuccinos, pastries and breakfast, so today we broke the walk at Olympia. 

If this is what preparation looks and feels like, more please.

• Walking log: Friday 9th January.

Training started with an early morning 10 km walk along one of my favourite walks in Cape Town.
Muizenberg - St. James - Kalk Bay - Fish Hoek return.
Walk: Coastal path and road.
Total km to date: 10.

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A pause....

Five months has passed since our extraordinary four months of travel in the Bahamas and the western USA.

I have been in a self-designed pause since coming back to South Africa in late July 2014,  resisting getting into a new project, or planning a holiday or thinking about a new destination.  It has not been a comfortable place to be in as I love the possibility that all of the above provides me.

The priority was to reconnect with my family and friends, to make my spaces feel like home again and just picking up where I left off. Fred and I have travelled many, many thousands of kilometres across South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe since coming back, being part of special events; a wedding, a funeral, birthdays, many special days and many ordinary days along the way.

And all this time I paused, not directing my energy or passion in any one direction.

The pause is done.

Fred was telling me about Andy, a friend, who today, in Egypt, has started to cycle the length of Africa. I was thinking, I do not cycle but I walk.

August will also be the start of the last year in my fifties and I feel like a challenge to mark this milestone.

My challenge will be to complete an Ultra Walk:

301 kilometres in 10 days.

The starting date will be 15th August.
The place will be Namaqualand among the beautiful carpets of spring flowers.

Training starts today. I will be on the road walking.

I am excited, energised, nervous, anxious about my feet, my knee, I will blog, I will list, I will find good food along the roads, I will bird watch, I will immerse myself as only I can do.

Walks. The body advances, while the mind flutters around it like a bird. ~Jules Renard

A call to be on a road.

Thank you David Whyte, rereading this poem, I am feeling the excitement of the challenge I am setting myself.

2015, I will be on the road, walking, exploring, testing my body limits as I do so.

SANTIAGO

The road seen, then not seen, the hillside hiding
then revealing the way you should take,
the road dropping away from you as if leaving you 
to walk on thin air, then catching you, holding you up,
when you thought you would fall, and the way forward
always in the end the way that you came, the way
that you followed, the way that carried you into your future,
that brought you to this place, no matter that it sometimes
took your promise from you, no matter that it always
had to break your heart along the way, the sense
of having walked from far inside yourself out into the revelation,
to have risked yourself for something that seemed
to stand both inside you and far beyond you,
that called you back in the end to the only road
you could follow, walking as you did, in your
rags of love and speaking in the voice
that by night, became a prayer for safe arrival…

© David Whyte
From SANTIAGO in PILGRIM: Poems by David Whyte