T is for Top Ten: New Chum Beach rated as one of the best in the world

Secretive and remote New Chum Beach

So this is what one of the best in the world looks like.

The access to the remote and secluded New Chum Beach, an hour north of Whitianga, is along a rocky promenade before cutting across a headland, the vista then opens out and it is stunning.

It could be Fiji, Bali, Thailand; turquoise water, white, fine sand, huge Pohutukawa trees provide shade along the beach edge, cliff faces drop almost into the sea, and an offshore island for interest, nesting rare New Zealand Dotterel's, gannets overhead, sea temperature quite moderate....

But the story of the day is Fred. He saved a little 6 year old girl from sure drowning, she was getting dumped by the huge incoming waves and getting dragged out at the same time. He was the only person who noticed, so dived in and lifted her out the water, one shocked mother and traumatised little girl. Our homegrown hero.

Pizza's at an idyllic beach kitchen called Luke's, started our New Year countdown, and 2016 will have many reasons for celebrations and for gratitude for life's riches and treasures.

B is for Barefoot on a beach: Cooks Beach, Coromandel Peninsula

Cooks Beach and Lonely Bay from Lookout. Coromandel Peninsula

As I walked barefoot along the firm sand of Cooks Beach, kept company by the Red-billed Gulls, I watched the New Zealander’s at play on their summer holiday here in the Coromandel Peninsula: boating, sailing, fishing, tubing, kayaking, wind-surfing, swimming, snorkeling, flying kites, making sand castles, playing beach games, skim boarding, body boarding, paddle boarding, running, or just lying on the beach sun tanning with a book.

To get to Cooks Beach we took the Ferry across the Whitianga Harbour, the trip only a few minutes long but it saves hours of driving, then we walked the 3km to Cooks Beach, past Flaxmill Bay. A fine, hot afternoon and the family had no problem braving the cold sea while I walked the length of the beach.

The views from Lookout and Shakespeare Cliff on our walk back across Mercury Bay were dramatic, the beaches and the rugged cliff faces quite beautiful.

Ah, and salted caramel ice creams at Espy Cafe, people watching….

C is for Champayne Pool: thermal wonders at Wai-O-Tapu

After Yellowstone National Park last year I was curious to see how I would experience the Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland near Rotorua.

Nature is so strange and remarkable that I was completely taken in by the colours and in awe yet again. 

Champayne Pool is extraordinary, the bright orange rim around the pool in such contrast to the grey of the sinter edge. The steam wafting off the pool changes colour too, picking up the pink and yellow hues surrounding the deep, gentle bubbling water - so like champayne bubbles.

It was hot, the sulphur odours quite oppressive as we did the 3.5km trail around the park, burping mud pools, hissing fumeroles, and mostly very peculiar coloured pools - lime and avocadogreen! 

Champayne Pool from the viewpoint at Wai-O-Tapu

T is for Tramping: the Northern Walkway, Wellington

From Wiki: 'Tramping, known elsewhere as backpacking, rambling, hill walking or bushwalking, is a popular activity in New Zealand. Tramping is defined as a recreational activity involving walking over rough country.'

Today we set out tramping along the Northern Walkway. Our walk started in Johnsonville and we set out traversing the hilly crests and gorges to eventually end up at the Lady Norwood Rose Garden in the Botanic Gardens, at Picnic Cafe, where we devoured Cajun Chicken Burgers which were yummy, a distance of 12km.

Tramping the Northern Walkway

Well I certainly discovered that tramping is tough going, steep ups and steep downs, endless sets of stairs and even on the short sections in the suburbs the roads have tortuous gradients!

The route took us through the green belts that shape and define this scenic small city with its big reputation, Lonely Planet has described Wellington as the 'coolest little capital in the world'.

And it is!

The glorious views of the bay and the CBD along the walkway kept us in awe, as did the deep blue sky, the deep pink of the flowering foxgloves, and the ferns with their huge fronds and curly koru's.

View of the Beehive, the executive wing of Parliament from the Town Belt section of our walk

B is for Boxing Day Sales: Lambton Quay shopping

A treat, Peter Alexander Boxing Day sale for pyjamas for all

We shopped until all four of us were exhausted!

And I loved it too, except Craig, nothing fitted or suited him. The rest of us handled the crowds along Lambton Quay in downtown Wellington and the stores were deeply discounted, which makes the effort worth the return.

Shawni and I headed straight to Peter Alexander, a brand and store that I first experienced in Auckland when we were here in New Zealand for the RWC in 2011. It has been on my to do list ever since. I came out with bags of sleeping attire, t-shirts, tank tops, pants and even Twinkle Toes slippers.

I think I could love this Boxing day tradition, especially when Fred surprised me with a belated Christmas gift, a Kindle Paperwhite! So thoughtful and so special. Thank you again.

W is for Wellington Cable Car: a ride to the Botanic Gardens

Wellington looking so fine

The Wellington weather has been perfect, warm sunny days, clear skies, no wind and the views have been breathtaking, so we headed downtown to take the Cable Car, which links the city with Kelburn, as the Cable Car lookout has stunning views over Wellington. And it did not disappoint!

The Cable Car is charming, the ride short and very steep, the tunnel was twinkling with Xmas lights and it was a reminder of four years ago on our first visit to New Zealand.

The stroll through the Botanic Gardens, which were established in 1868, with Shawni and Craig, along the Downhill Path back to the city was a treat, Fred delighting in capturing the gorgeous blowsy blooms, roses, irises, lilies and the seasonal displays.

The summer in full bloom indeed.

Summer blooms at the Botanical Gardens

W is for Walking: a brisk climb to Mt Kaukau for expansive views

Wellington from Mt Kaukau

We started the day with a short, but steep climb to a high point in Khandallah, Mt Kaukau, for remarkable vistas across Wellington, the CBD, Wellington Harbour, and across Cook Strait to South Island which was clearly visible, we could even see a snow capped peak in the distance.

A perfect summer day, light breeze, big blue skies, good way for Shawni and Craig to start their summer holiday.

T is for Tui: a New Zealand native

The Tui, is a New Zealand endemic that has flourished and survived and thrived despite urbanisation and all the issues the other endemics have experienced here.

They have entered the consciousness of everyone in New Zealand, more than any other bird and they are a brand all of their own!

Their droll snow-white feathers on the neck are called poies and give me a thrill each time a glimpse them. The hind neck is ornamented with filamentous plumes, the tui's chortle and chuckle and then break out into amazing song. They can look black but their colour is a shining metallic green with bluish purple reflections on the shoulders.

What a treat to have them in the garden, along our morning walk, I am back in New Zealand when I hear the Tui call.

P is for Pohutukawa: the Kiwi Christmas tree

"The pohutukawa tree (Metrosideros excelsa) with its crimson flower has become an established part of the New Zealand Christmas tradition. This iconic Kiwi Christmas tree, which often features on greeting cards and in poems and songs, has become an important symbol for New Zealanders at home and abroad."

I was so looking forward to seeing these crimson flowers and what they symbolise for Christmas in New Zealand. 

And they are beautiful. 

So here I am, far from South Africa, on Christmas Eve with Shawni and Craig in their lovely Wellington home, appreciating where I am and loving the calls of the Tui birds, it is a perfect day.

C is for Christmas is Coming: a morning in Melbourne

Counting down, 21 December in Melbourne

The Melbourne city centre was alive this morning, packed, buskers, families, office workers, tourists and we loved being part of it. The weather was mild and such a pleasure not to be too hot.

The lights, decorations and activities made me realise that Christmas is around the corner, that New Zealand is calling. 

We ambled along the Yarra River, enjoyed the Lego display at Fed Square, particularly the Lego Koala hanging on for dear life at the top of the Xmas Tree, the window shopping was a treat, the Arcades dressed beautifully, we found pies and dumplings along the way, we road the 35 Tram, took the photo Lee suggested under the Flinders Street Station...

So nice to be part of it all...

We are now finished with the first part of our 3 months trip and are transitioning to New Zealand for a few months.

Wonderful Christmas build-up in Melbourne

Standing under the Flinders Station clock, just as Lee said I should.

N is for Night Lights: an evening stroll in Melbourne

I am taken with Melbourne.
My first stroll around the main spots, Fed Square, the Flinders Station clock entrance, late at night, watching the lights, the peaceful Yarra River, glimpses of the flowers, the water features, the call of the Museums and Concert Halls.

C is for Cricket: an evening at the Melbourne Cricket Ground

KFC Big Bash League at the MCG

Lee and I spent 3 days talking about the weather here in Melbourne, the fierce heat, the strong winds, and then yesterday, the rain came down and the temperature dropped 20 degrees in less than an hour.

Fred and I had popped into a local cinema to see our summer favourite, a James Bond movie. We did this to escape the midday heat, when we came out it was pouring!

Fred was not impressed as we had an evening at the MCG planned, a highlight, as this is a wish of anyone who loves cricket.

It turned out to be a perfect evening. The rain cleared, the weather cooled and it was a pleasure to be out and not a fly in sight either.

Much excitement as we approached Melbourne and saw the Yarra River and the city for the first time, the MCG, the Rod Laver Arena, such well known landmarks.

The MCG is fabulous, the music and atmosphere of the Big Bash T20, the Silver Gulls in their hundreds, mascots and cheerleaders, and we saw some entertaining cricket too. Melbourne Stars vs Sydney Thunder - Jaques Kallis, Kevin Pietersen - the Stars only just lost too.

But the highlight was a Facebook post from Shawni in New Zealand, they had seen Fred and me on TV, did a quick freeze frame and sent it to us!

Such fun all round.

G is for Gum Trees: Australian stalwarts

Some of the tallest trees in the world

One of the pleasures of visiting Australia is to walk among the gum trees, their scale and their variety a real draw card, I was mightily impressed with the Australian Mountain Ash on this trip down from Mansfield to Melbourne.

Members of the Eucalyptus genus dominate the tree flora here and there are more than 700 species!  

They are known as gum trees because they can exude copious kino from any break in their bark. 

The appearance of the bark varies so much and the trees shed lengths of their bark fibres. 
The type of furrowing, the thickness, the hardness, and the colour is all fascinating to me. 

All mature gum trees put on an annual layer of bark, which contributes to the increasing diameter of the stems. Locals tells cautionary tales of the hazards of falling gum tree branches, car parks have a sign too that says 'beware of falling limbs'. So between the fire hazards and falling limbs these trees dominate in many ways.

How I love the names too, like the scribbly gum, and I notice the flowers and the nuts, along the trails. 

I found this pod on one of my walks, the form and colour remarkable.

This post is for Doreen, she too loves the trees.

F is for Ferry: Sorrento, Mornington Peninsula to Queenscliff

We got into Melbourne last night and settled into Lee's lovely home.

Our first Melbourne experience was a sunset outing to St Kilda's to see the march of the Little Penguins as they come in to roost along the rocks of the pier.

So dear!

Our early morning walk and flat white was in Lee's local patch, Jells Park, fortunately before it got too hot; my energy level is definitely affected by this sapping heat, so I walked measuredly and rather doggedly too and was very happy when Claire fetched us and cut the walk a little shorter.

We took a drive along the length of the Mornington Peninsula, a good strategy to keep out the heat in the air-conditioned car.

Fred and Lee did take a quick dip in the gorgeous sea at Safety Beach. As Fred said, fresh and refreshing. At times it reminded us of the colours of the seas of the Bahamas. Unexpected.

The highlight of our day was the Searoad Ferry between Sorrento and Queenscliff.  A 40 minute ride across the narrow mouth of Port Phillip, Melbourne looked so far away in the heat haze.

Gannets were active and so were the flocks of Silver Gulls.

The hot wind was blowing a gale on the way out, we were in the red zone, over 40 degrees but then on the way back it rained and there was a moment when Lee and I giggled about having goosebumps!

Melbourne gets you talking weather.

lld

Wind, heat and loads of pleasure to be on the sea!

Y is for Yarra Valley: visit to Healesville Sanctuary

A hot sleepy koala.

Fred seeing his first Koala! 

The wildlife here in Australia is not easy to see, except for the kangaroo. So we spent a few hours at the Healesville Sanctuary in the Yarra Valley on our way to Melbourne, even though it was very hot to be outdoors. 

Fred loved the slothfulness of the koalas; the quirky platypus entertained us with its own show; the wombat was inert in a cool spot in its cage; even the dingo was flat on its back. But still, it was special to see them all, the bird show went ahead too and was a treat - wedge-tailed eagle, rainbow lorikeets, owls, kestrel, cockatoos and gorgeous parrots.

Rather than wine tasting we headed for an Ice-cream spot which is legendary here in the Yarra Valley and my choice of salted caramel was a win.

I was blown away by the beauty of the Yarra Ranges and the Dandenongs with their towering Mountain Ashes, these trees dominate, tall and perfectly straight, the understory are magnificent tree ferns. The gardens and forest access points were closed because of the fire threat given the 40 degree temperatures but we did do a very short trail from Sassafras in the Dandenongs to get a feel for the forest.

W is for Walking: Morning in a State Forest

Tree majesty

"Bushwalking is a rewarding way to enjoy the natural features that the Mansfield area has to offer."

The Forest Notes brochure has been useful for guiding us to interesting walks and this morning we headed out early along the Mt Buller road to Sawmill Settlement. 

We parked at the Carters Mill Picnic Area, the trailhead for the Plain Creek Loop and the Tramway Bridge Walk. We followed the picturesque creek, the old timber tramway, a relic from the 1930's, and up to the remains of the old timber trestle bridge. The loggers used to bring the fallen timber down to the mill which is now the carpark.

The forest is quite beautiful, a refuge against the heat, majestic gums, the creek restful and the birdlife vibrant. The calls kept me alert all along the walk and as usual forest birding is never simple but we managed to see some special sightings, Fan-tailed Cuckoo, Brown Goshawk, Spotted Pardalote, Yellow-faced Honeyeaters, calling Golden Whistlers, Crimson Rosellas, Noisy Frairbirds, and any number of other birds that eluded me.

Glorious morning.

Plain Creek, a respite from the dry landscapes of the High Country

Birding was special in the forest, a cuckoo and a pardalote on my list

T is for Tweets: Telex tweets from The Telegraph, Beechworth

If this was 2015 on the 11 November, a tweet would have read, #nedkelly, "Ned Kelly executed at Melbourne Jail, Saturday at 10.04", instead a telex was sent from The Telegraph in 1890.

Everything has changed but nothing has changed.

This chalkboard in Beechworth was fascinating, telex's about the amount of gold received at Melbourne in 1859, a temperature low of -10 degrees on the 10 August 1872 and the Cornish Miner who fell down a 250 ft shaft and survived, #nobrokenbones!

K is for Kookaburra: waking up to it's laugh

The iconic Australian tree kingfisher with its laughing call needs a blog all on his own. Here the Kookaburra watches us keenly. The morning's here at the Mansfield Country Resort start with the Kookies laugh, so nice.

H is for Hay: Bales dot the biscuit coloured rural lands

The dominant colours here in the High Country of the North East Victoria, are the biscuit shades of fawn, gold and brown and the fields are dotted with hay bales and flocks of Cockatoos and Corellas.

I have been looking for the 'perfect' spot for a photo of these huge perfectly formed circular bales.

Fred, in his usual enthusiasm for getting the best out of his photography, jumped a fence and was on his belly in the itchy mown field.

Got to love it! I used my trusty iPhone to snap him at the hay bales.

F is for Foodie: Farm fresh cherries and Gum Honeys

When the birding mojo deserts me, it is time to revert to a foodie day. I dragged the gang out late afternoon yesterday with the promise of wetland birding. I had done the research, the website looked good, the local tourist magazine carried an article too, so Winton Wetlands was the destination, over 50km north of Mansfield.

We arrived to a vast dust bowl, with an enormous kangaroo just managing to cool off on the little ground water over the boat ramp. The temperatures were mid 30's, birds scarce so we turned around and headed back.

High Country foodie highlights.

Fortunately Bev, a friend of Lee's who joined us, pointed us to a local farmer who has a good cherry crop and we stopped at his 'honesty fridge' and bought a couple of kg's. Plump and delicious.

'If Mansfield is the heart of the High Country. The Regional Produce Store is the heart of Mansfield.' 

This quote from a local cookbook is spot on, Fred and I found this little gem on day one in Mansfield and we have made it our local for the week, yummy baguette sandwiches with roast vegies, tandoori chicken and pulled pork, and of course loads of good flat whites.

Today we pottered along the King Valley road, via iNeeta's for breakfast of pies and pancakes and then onto Beechworth to partake in their Honey Experience. Beechworth Honey is an impressive business and we had the option to taste 30 different honeys, all influenced by which gums trees the bees frequented, like red gum, yellow stringy bark, coolibah, green mallee, grey ironbark and more.

I managed about 7 and was then honeyed out! But not enough to turn down ironbark honey ice-cream with macadamia nuts.

This recipe caught my eye and Fred is keen to make them once we get to New Zealand.

W is for Walking: 14km along the Great Victorian Rail Trail

Walking from Maindample to Mansfield

Over boiled eggs and toast last night Lee reminded us that we have known each longer than we have not know each other. We all met in our 20's and here we are at a timeshare in the High Country of Victoria, spending time together, as if the distance between Johannesburg and Melbourne does not exist.
A privilege indeed.

And we spent our morning walking the section of the Great Victorian Rail Trail between Maindample and the Trail Head at Mansfield. Over 140km of the original rail track is now converted to a wonderful space for walkers, cyclists and horse riders.Fabulous use of the land!

We dropped cars at each end and walked the 14km stretch through the countryside, which is a golden biscuit colour, marvelling at the form of the gums, the deep blue of the sky and we just loved being out.

It was the hottest day we have experienced to date here in Australia, mid 30's, so we kept the pace gentle, talking all the way and bridging the years.

Q is for Quirky signs: An echidna on the road

A gate on a walk - reclining kangaroo is a delight

Travel delivers some quirky moments and not least of all these come from the caution signs on the highways here in Australia - with their images of the weirdly wonderful animals of this great continent - kangaroo, emu, echidna, wombat, koala.

So I have been watching the verges for glimpses of the wildlife, there have been loads of kangaroos but no sign of the others.

Yesterday as we were driving to the summit of Mt Buller, I saw my first Echnida, just off the road, about a rugby ball size, short quills, with its strange little face and it's long snout of a nose.

No sooner were we out the car than it sensed danger and started to burrow furiously, hiding its face underground!

Fred and Guy tried to encourage it to surface without any luck, we all hooted with laughter when the Echidna came up for air - its stuck it's long nose out of the ground and took a breath. So odd, so how about a wombat next?

Postscript: on the road today I noticed a dead animal on the roadside, we turned around and it was a wombat, much larger than I expected, full bodied and strong looking. Would have preferred to see it alive though.

F is for Fry's Hut: a mountain man tin and log hut in the High Country

Built in the mid 1900's, Fred Fry lived as a mountain man, an isolated life until his death in the 1970's and he is well remembered for his building talent and he influenced the style of many of the heritage huts here in the High Country. We walked the 3km Heritage Trail in the Howqua Valley, saw the remains of the gold mining from the mid 1800's ending at the hut. I must remember to get Inel to sketch it for me in my journal, the lines are remarkable.

So while I was finishing high school, here was this man, in his tin and wood hut, living the simple but rich life, too marvellous.

F is for Family: a surprise visit!

A late night intrusion here at our timeshare near Mansfield in Victoria.

Inel, Guy and Joss had arrived after a 7 hour drive from Cowra, NSW. So special.

We ran around here in the High Country, tasted Tin Shed ciders; visited Dalzotto, of Masterchef fame for me, in the King Valley for crisp, cold Prosecco; walks are the lake, along a heritage trail and up the summit of Mt Buller; made good food; found the King Parrot and of course loads of coffee and wine.

We saw them off at 5am this morning and look forward to our return visit at the end of February.

G is for Grasstree: a Western Australian icon

A road trip can surprise. I assumed the landscape would be dominated by the wondrous gum trees that Australia has, until we stumbled on this scene along the Indian Ocean Highway. A vast plain of Grasstrees and as the info board says, they can survive for over 500 years. Such an interesting sighting indeed.