The church at Pella

The post brunch walk was brutal.

The winter temperatures here in Bushmanland are hotter than Johannesburg in summer and in summer here, it is not unusual to experience temperatures in the high 40's. So very hot and 16km of walking on soft sand back road tracks.

We headed from Klein Pella to Pella over a vast veld of stubby grasses and the odd scrubby plant. Then up and over a couple of passes in the mountain range up here on the border of the Orange River.

Midges buzzed constantly, sand in my shoes worsening the state of my heels. I was too weary, in need of a shower and rest to really take in the strangeness of this beautiful Catholic Church at the centre of life in Pella. It was built in 1895 by Bishop Simon.

Bushmanland walking

We were hosted in a kind and thoughtful way by the two remaining nuns, tea and homemade scones, a table set with all their best things before visiting the church. Some of the children sang, we were asked to make 3 wishes, a service was held which moved some of the group.

I am conflicted, the phrase godforsaken describes this extremely isolated community of 2000 souls but this church is their heart and their lifeblood along with the date palms dotted around the small town. A place run by women, raising children as men find whatever work they can in the greater area.

• Walking log: 17th August

Second leg of the walk, 15km. Slow, as mindful as I could be, encouragement by Fred, my body holding up ok, my feet a constant discomfort though. A little tension in the group as we are all weary and have different needs to get through each day.

Just had my feet carefully lanced and doctored and plastered by Frik ready for tomorrow.

Total kilometres to date: 62 of 301km

Temples of date palms, Klein Pella at sunrise

Bushmanland, bordering Namibia, is a vast, arid landscape, harsh and formidable. We have transitioned away form the flowers of Namaqualand to walk here in Bushmanland.

We are based at the Klein Pella Guesthouse on the largest date farm in the southern hemisphere. It is such an impressive organisation, high tech, immaculate with a caring responsible approach to the people and the place.

The accommodation is a gem. We were up before dawn to drive to the Orange River to walk the sunrise over the vast 'temples' of palms. The plantations felt like the temples in Egypt. An eerie sight these huge trees set in the desolation of a semi desert. I look forward to taking a box of their medjool dates home.

We have safari style stops to rest feet and revive a little, here we are after the first 8km this morning and the views of the palms while lying on my back....

• Walking log: 17th August

The first 16km of the walking today was from the Orange River past the palms, the precision planting of export table grapes and the business premises.

The walking was nice, even with the long slow incline all the way to the Guesthouse. My challenge is the increasingly worrisome blisters on both my heels. It is makes me anxious.