Monday 8 February 2016

T is for Tongariro Alpine Crossing: the 19.4 km done




We made it! the gang on the track.
We left the volcanic zone and golden switchbacks and entered the final stretch, the forest.
The downhill started to hurt. Uneven sections of stairs for about 3km! Achy knees for all. Shawni was strong the whole way but found this stretch monotonous. But the end of our 8 hours was close and suddenly we arrived at Ketetahi Hut.
The tramp was done. Well done Fred, Craig and Shawni.
The transport arrived and we headed back to Adventure Lodge and Motel.
Exhausted and so amazed to have completed the Crossing, not for nothing called New Zealand's best one day hike.

 Mangatetipua Stream, the track finishes through a forest.

T is for Tongariro Alpine Crossing: the long descent

Time to descend
The long descent started. 
The switchbacks through the golden tussock slopes were a breather, I could get into a rhythm and walk, so the kilometres started to melt away.
The views across to Lakes Rotoaira and Taupo were special too.
At times there was a slight incline and my body would complain, but in the main this was a less demanding stretch of the crossing.


Beauty in the detail

Golden tussock slopes

Shawni and Craig on the switchbacks

Lake Rotoaira from the switchbacks on the descent

C is for Central Crater: Tongariro Alpine Crossing


From our lunch stop at the Emerald Lakes we traversed the Central Crater which is a dramatic drainage basin rather than a true crater. These images looking back along the track to Red Crater are stunning and as I sit here blogging, it feels mythical already. What a hike!.




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Quiet, sacred Blue Lake, an acidic water body

E is for Emerald Lakes: Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Our first view of the Emerald Lakes as we started the descent from Red Crater
Three lakes make up the Emerald Lakes and they are old explosion pits with brilliant water colourings from the minerals washed down from the Red Crater. Amazing sight as we crested Red Crater.
Other worldly coloured lake.

Shawni and Craig navigating the scree slope.

So now the 11 kilometres of decent started. This had me laughing out loud, a ridiculously steep but narrow scoria slope! I hung onto Fred's backpack and we slipped down, literally. After the loose scree section the path hardens into a packed surface with small loose stones - downhill on marbles, still giggling I held on for dear life and kept sliding behind Fred....

Scoria slope with the old lava flow from Red Crater.

Our 'picnic' spot, steaming vents and just a little smelly too.
The lunch stop was so welcome, we just plopped down, rested for a short while, knocked all the scree out of our shoes and started the next leg of the walk to the acidic Blue Lake, a sacred place for the Maori's.


R is for Red Crater: high point of the Crossing, 1886m

Gaping Red Crater, Mt Tongariro


Remarkable colours of Red Crater
Having slogged up the steep, rocky ridge we were in awe of what came next, we were right on the edge of the gaping Red Crater, looking into the surreal colours and shapes.

It felt raw and ripped and at the same time velvety.

The weather was much cooler, the wind came up, we added a layer and took in this weird, stupendous place.



T is for Tongariro Alpine Crossing: 3500 souls on the path on Devil's Staircase


The track up the valley to the saddle between Ngauruhoe and Tongariro, over lava rocks, is aptly called the Devil's Staircase, it is very steep, stacks of wooden steps twist and turn from 1400 to 1600 meters above sea level.

I battled the whole way, one step at a time, questioning my fitness for this arduous piece of the tramp, the height gain affected me too, made me nauseous and my heart was pounding with each pace. I was testing Fred's patience as he shepherded me up.

It was a long weekend here in New Zealand, Waitangi Day. On a good summers day there can be 1000 people on the Crossing. The estimate for our day on the path was 3500!

That added another level of pressure on the ascent - young, 20 somethings pushing past on the narrow stairs. I just doggedly put one foot in front of the other and crept up and up and up, too exhausted to even weep when I got to the saddle and then needed to tackle the rocky, uneven ascent to Red Crater after the South Crater stretch of flat walking.

Reaching the saddle and the huge, walled amphitheatre


Up in the alpine zone, bleak, eerie and beautiful

N is for Ngauruhoe: Mount Doom from Mordor

Mt Ngauruhoe from the Saddle

Alpine summer flowers.

Mount Doom, Mordor, can see what the appeal was!

From Tongarirocrossing.org.nz:

The Lord of the Rings
In autumn 2000, Tongariro National Park was home to the most sinister of the Lord of the Rings locations, Mordor, which is
the strong hold of the dark Lord Sauron.  Mordor, is the great volcanic plateau filled with geological  wonders known as Gorgoroth.  Much of Frodo and Sam's journey into the land of Sauron was filmed on and around the Tongariro National Park. 
The area has jagged volcanic rock formations and eerie barren landscapes, ideally suited to Mordor's hissing wasteland.
To really immerse yourself in Mordor and feel the eerie barren landscape, trek the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.  The following are features of Tongariro National Park that were captured in the filming of scenes from the Lord of the Rings trilogy.
Mt Ngauruhoe
Mt Ngauruhoe was digitally altered to appear as Mt Doom.  Mt Ngauruhoe is a featur of the Tongariro Alpine Cros
sing. 

T is for Tongariro Alpine Crossing: the legendary one day hike on the North Island

Mt Raupehu, the ski mountain of the Tongariro National Park.
Boardwalk over the volcanic lava flow

It starts, the legendary Tongariro Alpine Crossing, lauded as the best one day hike in New Zealand.

Shawni and Craig had organised the transfer to the start point and we were off at 8.30am from National Park to the car park at Mangatepopo.

The weather was perfect!

The day before had been overcast with rain but we had blue skies, the visibility was so good that Mt. Taranaki was floating on the horizon 100km to  the west. I was so relieved as it is a fair weather tramp and all about the scenery and grand vistas.
Mt Taranki on the horizon, Shawni and Craig on the path.
The day started with an easy tramp up the Mangatepopo Valley to Soda Springs, walking over the old lava flows with great views of Mt Raupehu and Mt Ngauruhoe looming large. My nerves had settled a little as we walked across the boardwalks but then as we got to Soda Springs, the Devil's Stairway came into view - oh my.

It starts, the arduous Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Summer grasses with golden heads.