Thursday 5 October 2017

Some thoughts about Bali

I:
  • am missing my photographer to capture the exotic culture of Bali and the secret pleasure of its birds.
  • appreciate getting closer to all things Balinese.
  • learn each day from my generous birding guide Bayu Hendra, he has certainly opened my eyes to all things Sunda.
  • see ceremonies at the heart of living life here in Bali.
  • have forgotten how punishing a full day of birding can be, but...
  • love to bird and be in nature.
  • ate dragonfruit.
  • so enjoy doing my bird 'admin', listing and recording is part of my daily routine, this was the view today sitting with a pot of ginger tea and reflecting on an epic day in the field.
    A perfect spot for listing.
  • am been woken by the 4.50am call to prayer and kept awake by traditional music, and how I dislike noisy bar fridges in hotel rooms.
  • smile at the variety of headgear worn by the men.
  • frown that everyone smokes.
  • birded in the peaceful grounds of the Patu Karu temple.
  • am intrigued by the notion of home as a temple and how literal this is here in Bali.
  • so enjoyed the rice paddies of Jatiluwih.
  • put aside my anxiety about Mount Agung.
  • added 100 new birds to my world list.
  • had dinner for one on the beach watching the full moon rise over the Java Sea.
  • noticed how I do not have the courage to swim and snorkel here at Taman Sari Resort, but the evening swim in the private pool for the Studios was rather pleasant.
  • find seeing the swastika, representing the wheel of the sun in Balinese Hinduism, jarring.
  • am eating chicken three times a day and did not know that was possible.
  • tasted something most unusual, avocado as a dessert served with chocolate condensed milk.
  • did not expect the dominance of concrete in the cultural artifacts.
  • see thousands of motorcycles and see children on motorcycles.
  • rather like the colorful soft-top VW's on the island.
  • like the mid morning ground coffee break, which is sweet and black and from a sachet, then having ginger tea with lunch.
  • am down-heartened at the close up view of back-breaking work and poverty.
  • wonder when the black and white checked fabric became the choice for statue dressing. 
  • have lost count of the number of yellow, or white, or checked umbrellas in the temples, some new but most are tattered and torn.
  • see women sweeping bare ground.
  • am dismayed that the culture of caged birds in Bali, which started as a sign of status and wealth, now causes poaching and species decline. 
  • have yet to find pristine anything.
  • did not take to the long-tailed macaques, they line the roads, strategically placed in the shade, and beg for hand-outs. The Ebony Leaf Monkeys had more dignity, getting on with life in the Bali Barat National Park.
  • did however experience the Christian communities of Blimbingsari and Palasari as peaceful, with lovely gardens and their links to the Dutch taking control of Bali in 1908 is fascinating.
  • am in awe of the huge ficus trees and the bamboo forest of the Bali Botanical Garden.
  • was impressed with the caldera in the centre of Bali with its misty lakes and vegetable farms.
  • see offerings, remnants of offerings, offerings as a business, offerings as trash, and as a welcome to my room today with fruit.
  • have a favorite meal to date, Chicken Satay at the Harris Hotel.
  • see hints of what we call "Bali-style" back home. 
  • think laundry skills are excellent here, white is whiter than white and worn by all. Apart from yellow.
  • notice the inside outside way of life along the roads we have travelled.
  • witnessed a personal blessing along the busy road.
  • notice the beauty of flowers.
  • walked the Pemuteran black beach at sunrise and watched the start of day routine for the resort staff.
  • look forward to Sharon, Natalie and Bev arriving, but before then I am swelling my world bird list and so delighted to be doing so.

Another first, delicious tof