Number 53: Closing out the Owls on my Southern African Bird List

A magnificent African Grass Owl.

African Grass Owl, the one owl still missing on my local bird list, the last of the 12 owls found in Southern Africa that I needed to see.

Number 53:

Closing out the Owls on my Southern African Bird List.

Tyto capensis, and I have now seen all our owls!

What a joy and challenge it has been chasing our owls: from Nxabega in the Okavango for Pel's Fishing Owl, to Grahamstown (many times over) for the Cape Eagle Owl, to the Kalahari Gemsbok in 1997 for the Whitefaced Owl, the Barred Owl also in Botswana at Moremi 3rd Bridge, a Giant Eagle Owl near Satara in the Kruger National Park in 1998 and so on.

Here I am, 25 years since I started birding, in a field north of Johannesburg for an African Grass Owl, with Fred and Martie, being guided by Etienne Marais, our fabulous local bird man.

It is a very cold June winter morning and the huge moon seemed to be guiding us in the dark to our meeting point.

With the sun rising, we were ready to scan the patches of blade grass, Etienne explaining that the habitat was perfect for grass owls and in no time at all, there it was, a Grass Owl!

What a completely wonderful moment. It is a magnificent bird with its enormous pale facial disk, liquid dark brown eyes, its dangly long legs protruding behind the tail and even though it is a medium sized owl, it looked huge as it dropped down into the tall, thick, rank grass.

Blade grass in the early morning light. Perfect habitat.

Number 6, Part 4: Seeing my city through its Art Galleries: Maboneng District

Uncontainable: Good way to describe the Maboneng.

We tried galleries yesterday, Spaza Art in Troyeville which looked neglected, rundown and definitely closed and MOAD, a cavernous empty space...

But, as things happened we had a surprise, unplanned outing to Maboneng instead, a space of urban renewal to the east of the Johannesburg CBD.

Number 6:

Seeing my city through its Art Galleries.

Trendy, artistic, urban chic, cosmopolitan, collaborative, entrpreneurial, creative; a fine example of mixed land-use inner city renaissance, which buzzes on a weekend but is laidback and interesting to explore during the week.

The dilapidated 19th century buildings sit comfortably alongside container apartments and coffee shops. Martie and I ambled around the city blocks; stopping for coffee; nosing into buildings and hidden gardens; noticing old shoes decorating an inner courtyard; admiring a little bit of heritage on display Sir Herbert Baker's dining room suite; buying bread that Washington had just baked; seeing the street installation art by Kim Lieberman called 'Human Interaction'; buying some shweshwe slippers for little man; eating an Ethiopian vegetarian sharing platter served on injera, the slightly sour rice flatbread; doing a walkabout of the container apartments with a very enthusiastic building manager called Kelvin; enjoying lofty views from The Living Room; chatting to a young Maltese woman taking in precinct; appreciating the social work being done by #iwasshotinjoburg...

Another intriguing peep into my city.

Glimpses of Maboneng on a clear winter morning in Johannesburg.

Number 52: Joining the world of Instagram

When Inel visited for the wedding in March she got me excited about using Instagram and I love how she has been showcasing her art.

Number 52:

Joining the world of Instagram.

I got a roaring fire going in the kitchen, brought the laptop through and started to navigate through yet another social media platform and of course, the #! With all the wonderful photos we have, I am excited about this new creative process, just learnt how to airdrop, and choose this photo to get started this morning. 

#closeups#windowsanddoors#fredkerstenphotographer

Number 51: Bellevue Alm, the Mother of Cottages

Ancient low slung wooden beams and logs, hand worn painted furniture and carvings, an enormous stone fireplace, and a whole suckling pig roasting in an outdoor brick oven set into the mountain. We have arrived at the 600 year old Bellevue Alm, a cottage well known across the Alps in Europe and affectionately called the 'Mother of Cottages'.

Number 51:

Bellevue Alm, the Mother of Cottages.

The cottage sits high on the mountain above Bad Gastein and commands spectacular views. But the real action was around the enormous outdoor oven, the chef called us out, the musicians danced across the patio and with style the Bellevue Alm's crew lifted out the whole suckling pig. 

Such theatre and we loved it all!

A ceremony for the roasting suckling pig, musicians lead the way, the clay is removed the metal lids opened
and a perfectly whole roasted pig is revealed.

An evening at Bellevue Alms. Delicious pork with bread dumplings, which, if truth be told, were my favorites.
The musicians had us smiling and foot thumping all evening.

Candles ready and the group set off down the mountain after the feast.

What a crazy and memorable evening out and a good way to close out our 5 weeks of 'Spring in Europe'.

Number 50: Exploring the food of Austria

Another new country for our world list, Austria. We are now up to fifty countries visited.
And as always a food adventure awaits.
It's been a rainy day, so instead of riding the cable car into the mountains, we are exploring new foods and going to a folk evening later tonight.
I felt a foodie blog would be perfect for my 'Hundred Different Things' this year, half way mark.

Number 50:

Exploring the food of Austria

"Rindsuppe mid Gebackenen Leberknodel"

A hearty beef broth with a liver dumpling, served with chopped chives.

Great for a rainy late lunch, the liver dumpling not necessarily my favorite choice though.

"Glasierte Kartoffel-Powidl taschen mit Joghurt Zitronensauce"

Dumplings as a desert! Potato dumplings filled with a smooth thick plum jam and served with zesty citrus yoghurt, berry sauce and cream. They were delicious indeed.

"Rindergulash mit Nockerl (Spätzle)"

As our waitress in one of the restaurants we frequented in Bad Gastein said, 'we Austrians also love Goulash' and they sure cook it well, the meat was delicious and tender.
But the dish was about trying the Nockerl, little irregularly shaped dough balls, more dissolve in the mouth than pasta and lighter than gnocchi, they held the sauce well.

"Currywurst" 

A steamed pork sausage served with a curry ketchup. A surprise on the menu, tasty but I found the texture too smooth.

"Tiroler Groslt"
Fred's favorite! A hearty bacon, onion and potato fry-up served in a skillet with a soft fried egg, parsley and thyme. The chef also added some seasonal vegetables.

 "Apfelstrudel"
The famous Austrian dessert, a sweet delight of paper thin pastry sheets and delicious apples. Our staple - even in the Dolomites. We also tried an apple cake, the light as air cake with a layer of apple, it was nice with coffee while we watched the Gastein Waterfall thunder down the gorge.






"Weiner Schnitzel"
A standard dish on all the menus and probably the most well known Austrian dish too. We popped down to Bad Hofgastein to search out a good spot to try schnitzel, as this rainy day was slowing us down. And what a treat, pork schnitzel with parsley butter potatoes and a cranberry jam. Ideal for this grey day.

"Kasekrainer & Hautbrot"

A sausage filled with cheese that oozes onto the delicious sourdough rye bread, a useful evening snack here in our apartment in Bad Gastein.

"Knodel"

My favourite! Spinach and cheese dumplings done four different ways with a butter sauce.

And the perfectly presented strong cappuccino. 

On a silver platter, with a glass of water, hot milk on the side, a head of foam and a little chocolate on the side.

Eating well in the Gastein Valley.

Number 49: Healing Waters, Austria's Gastein Valley, an Alpine beauty.

Finding the thermal waters on our early morning walking. Glorious!

Fred and I are completely charmed by Bad Gastein, a picturesque spa village in the Gastein Valley in the heart of the Austrian Alps. 

Sheep wander through the village with their bells tinkling; music wafts up to our third floor apartment, snow peaks float high above our balcony, a world apart.

Number 49:

Healing Waters, Austria's Gastein Valley, an Alpine beauty.

We are surrounded by Belle Epoque hotels and villas built into the impossibly steeply forested slopes above the raging waterfalls along the Gastein River.

Bad Gastein from the upper bridge.

Our morning walking along the Gastein River.

Waterfalls in Bad Gastein 

It has been all about water, hot thermal springs known since the Roman times and enriched with minerals and radon.

We have been finding thermal hot streams along our walks; drinking copious amounts of the icy cold mountain water from the interesting sculpture pieces in each of the towns in the valley; swimming daily; in and out of whirlpools with jets soothing post walk weary bodies; stream rooms, saunas have been nudist so have not had the courage to go into them...

And we spent an early evening session last night at the local thermal baths, called Felsentherme Gastein, floating in the 32 degree water, in an outdoor pool, with steam rising in the cool air, and the snow capped mountain in the background. 

The water felt buoyant, light on the skin and very relaxing indeed. 

And healing? not sure I was still weary after the 18km morning walking, but maybe.....

Healing water is all its wonderful forms. Our daily swimming is special here in Bad Gastein.

Number 48: Alpine Farm Breakfast at Amoseralm

There is nothing different about Fred and I walking to breakfast, it is what we love to do in Johannesburg and Cape Town. What made this morning different was climbing 1000ft over 2.5km up a steep footpath to Amoseralm for breakfast, an historical Austrian Alpine family farm cottage.

Amoseralm, an Alpine Farm Cottage at 1200m, our breakfast destination.

Number 48:

Alpine Farm Breakfast at Amoseralm.

Freshly baked Austrian rye sourdough bread, cheese that smells of the farm, air-dried ham, a skillet of scrambled eggs, mountain water, mugs of coffee, homemade preserves, farm butter and a bowl of bircher muesli with berry compote, all placed out on our rough-hewn wooden table!

Sunshine, high altitude meadows with spring flowers, high snow peaks, and around us cows, chickens, rabbits, pigs, a young waitress in an Austrian traditional dress - and a woodpile with a window.

Alpine Breakfast, needed the 3km walk down to the valley floor.

From my friend Sharon:
"Above all, do not lose your desire to walk. Everyday, I walk myself into a state of well-being & walk away from every illness. I have walked myself into my best thoughts, and I know of no thought so burdensome that one cannot walk away from it. But by sitting still, & the more one sits still, the closer one comes to feeling ill. Thus if one just keeps on walking, everything will be all right." Soren Kirkegaard

Number 47: An afternoon of music in Bad Gastein, Austria

Our afternoon of music.

The summer season has kicked off here in the mountain town of Bad Gastein with the arrival of the Johann Strauss Orchestra from Salzburg.

Number 47:

An afternoon of music in Bad Gastein, Austria

The 82 year old director and composer Prof Baldur Paub presented the program - although in German, which helped create the atmosphere in the beautiful Belle Epoque Wiener Salon of the Grand Hotel de l'Europe with its perfect acoustics for the music.

It was altogether charming, the 10 piece orchestra youthful and obviously happy to here in Bad Gastein.

I had to pinch myself that I am in Austria, a meeting place for music lovers from all over the world, listening to popular classics and melodies. 

Whips being lashed to music.
Rhythmic and skillful.

And a post script: 

The opening of the Folk Evening with
3 Alpine Horn players.

Last night we went into Bad Hofgastein and joined in a Folk Evening in the Kursaal.
An evening of singing, dancing, music and lederhosen-wearing men standing on tables around us, lashing whips!
So intrigued by the size of the huge 'alpenhorns' carved from the core of the pine trees here in the Austrian Alps.

Number 46: A visit to a Refugio, Dolomites.

A Refugio is an Alpine Hostel, providing both accommodation and food. We have been seeing them along our hikes, perched precariously high in the mountains, but they have mostly been closed as the summer season has not yet gotten into full swing.

Number 46:

A visit to a Refugio, Dolomites

Harsh hiking conditions on Tre Cime de Lavaredo, ice on the path! 

But today the weather got the better of us. We had gotten half way along the hiking Route 101 around the magnificently grand Tre Cime before we turned back. The temperature had dipped below 8 degrees C, it rained, the path had frozen overnight in places and at one point we had a white-out!
By the time we got to the Refugio, open thank goodness, we found a roaring fire, cappuccinos and strudel!
This could not be a better way to experience my first Refugio here in the Dolomites.

Arriving at Refugio Auronzo!

Number 45: The Fanes gorges, cataracts, waterfalls and streams, Cortina D"Amprezzo

After a delicious lunch of pasta and salad our afternoon hike took us into the extremely panoramic Fanes gorges, waterfalls and streams north of Cortina.

Number 45:

The Fanes gorges, cataracts, waterfalls and streams, Cortina D'Amprezzo

Fanes Gorge.

The walk to the Fanes waterfalls, passing the confluence of the Fanes, Travenenzes and Ra Vales valleys, is a hugely impressive landscape reflecting the power of water.  Deep canyons and gorges, potholes, rapids and waterfalls all along the Rio Fanes are really beautiful and the water a sea-foam green colour, as John called it.

The Fanes Cascate Basse are some of the highest and largest waterfalls in the Dolomites and accessed via a narrow, vertiginous cliff side path with a sheer drop into the gorge below, where the four of us hung onto the steel rope for dear life! Such an adrenalin rush, shew.

Fred getting ready to walk behind the raging waterfall to take photos.

Navigating the steel rope along the narrow, slippery path, getting sprayed by the falls.

The Johnz approaching the falls.

Number 44: A new Mammal and a lifer for my World Bird List

Breathing, sometimes laboured, sometimes light, feet being placed mindfully, a meditative state as I take in the small details along our path. Willows, pines, alpine spring flowers, butterflies, the birdsong...and then excitement as something breaks through this contemplative state.

Number 44:

A new Mammal and a lifer for my World Bird List

The insistent drumming of a woodpecker caught our attention and we were able to watch its technique, the flicking of the bark looking for insects and larvae. I was delighted to read that this is a rare sighting for the Dolomiti D'Ampezzo and we were so close to this bird. 

An exciting addition to my world list.

Three-toed Woodpecker, photo by friend and world photographer John Montfort.
Notice those 3 toes - wow.

A young woman on the hike pointed out the Chamois to us, it was feeding up on the screeslopes. A delicate goat-antelope of the mountains and a special addition to our mammal sightings.

A Chamois on the scree slope, some distance from us but a great sighting. Some of the rich plant life.

From the Dolomiti D'Ampezzo website:

Nature lovers are provided with a vast patrimony which numbers among its attraction various types of optimum natural environments, largely inhabited by a rich variety of plant and animal life: from green valleys to dense woods, lakes and waterfalls to the urban landscape of Cortina. In this truly unique environment one may encounter ibex, chamois, golden eagles and owls, the extremely rare three-toed woodpecker,and foxes and weasels. Recent sightings have been made signalling the presence of brown bears and bearded vultures.

Number 43: Lago del Sorapis in the Dolomites

Our hiking in the Dolomites started today.  I tentatively pulled on my new hiking shoes which are still stiff and unforgiving and stepped out into yet another hike, following route number 215. Breathing mindfully, not knowing what was in store for me, but also appreciating the clear path of the hike that was first forged in 1864.
Our destination, a high altitude Alpine glacial lake reputed to be a true beauty.

Number 43:

 Lago del Sorapis in the Dolomites

The technical challenge of the 13km hike fades when I recall the setting of the lake as well as the colours of the lake. The blues, milky yet clear, turn turquoise, the water reflects the bright green of the pines, as well as the ice white of the snow, all very mystical.

Arriving at Lago del Sorapis, at the foot of 'Dito di Dio', the finger of God,
a mountain peak at 3 205m that looms over the lake.

Lago del Sorapis, a 'Tiffany' blue from above, at and altitude 1923m,
fed by the rapidly receding glaciers and annual snow.

As the gang hiked around the glacial lake, I had time to sit quietly and reflect. Nature at the edge. I heard a thunder-like sound, then watched an avalanche high in the amphitheater of rock, the snow rained down like a waterfall for about 5 minutes and the Alpine Chough's quickly flew off their roosting spots along the peaks.

Milky turquoise detail!

A technical hike; snow and stream crossings, steel ropes and metal stairs to navigate vertiginous slopes,
steep uneven switchbacks, irregular and rugged paths. Did we ever love getting down and having a feast!
Kersten's, John Montfort and John Howell on the hike.

Number 42: New mountains, arriving in the Dolomites.

The air is fresh, we are wearing a couple of layers, we have arrived in Cortina d'Ampezzo in the heart of the southern Dolomitic Alps of Northeastern Italy, meeting up with the John's from Hawaii. How I love that we can converge from different parts of the world and all arrive within a few minutes of each other.

Number 42:

New mountains, arriving in the Dolomites.

The meadows, which are swathes of an almost shockingly bright green dotted with spring flowers, give way to the pine forests, followed by a transition zone of scree slopes before the grand, jagged rock formations soar straight into the deep blue of the sky. 

This scenery is staggering.

John took us on a drive with really tight switchbacks to see some of the passes and mountains. The infrastructure is good so these special mountain formations, which have names, are accessible by car.  It will take me a few days to get orientated and start to recognize these peaks, the one name that is sticking is the 'queen of the Dolomites', Marmolada, the highest peak here at 3 343m.

Number 41: A day out at sea, Malta

Crystal clear, cerulean, cobalt, green, blue, ultramarine....

Number 41:

A day out a sea, Malta

A group of friends, a catamaran, food and drinks and we left harbour. 

This sea is exquisite and how we all loved the crisp early summer temperature of the water. We sailed north-west, up past St Paul's Island, where St Paul is said to have been shipwrecked, up and around Comino Island with lovely views across to Gozo, and even a look at the ever popular Blue Lagoon. 

Anchor down in Armier Bay, gentle bobbing, swimming and fab food.

A completely wonderful way to finish our stay in Malta. Thanks Bruce and Cathy, we loved it all!

Playing in and on the Med!

Valletta as we left harbour.

Number 40: The first time to Malta and time with family.

Unique wooden and stone balconies of Malta in Valletta.

After leaving Sicily and crossing to Malta on a late night ferry we have been with my cousins Bruce and Cathy. 

I have appreciated time with them, getting to know them better and seeing Malta through the lens of residents.

Number 40:

The first time to Malta and time with family.

We:

• Were hosted so graciously by Bruce and Cathy at their Sky Villa in Ta’ XBiex.
• Swam lengths in their 9^thfloor pool with views across the harbor to Valletta and bobbed in the Mediterranean Sea at Golden Bay.
• Played scrabble on the patio, G&T in hand, enjoying the cool of the evening, watching the impressive fireworks over the horizon.
• Had a delicious braai, Bruce showing that he has not lost his basic South African skills.
• Talked and laughed and shared family stories over coffee, beer and wine. And even funnier was Bruce imagining that his half bottle of beer had been whipped away by the waiter which certainly got Fred going!
• Marveled at the Caravaggio paintings at St John’s Co-Cathedral and took the 2-hour tour of this extravagant cathedral of the Knights of St John.

  

  Awe inspiring detail of St John's Co-Cathedral, over a hectare of restored gold leaf surfaces.

• Ambled around Valletta, took in the town and the views across to the Three Cities.
• Walked Roman Roads and mysterious ‘cart tracks’ at Xemxija.
• Stood at the zinc counter inside the iconic Caffe Cordina, dating from 1837, for coffee and pies.
• Bought pretty Mdina glass earrings.

  

  Detail from the Hagar Qim Temple.

• Loved the colour pallete of Malta, golden hues and pops of pastels.
• Noted the fabulous enclosed painted wooden balconies, so unique to Malta.
• Were in awe of man’s story on the island spanning 5000 years and more, as we walked about the Hagar Qim Temples and saw the priceless relics at the National Archaeological Museum, particularly the ‘fat ladies’ from the temple era.
• Got completely tongue-tied trying to pronounce Malti words, a complex Semitic language which includes Arabic, Hebrew and Amharic.
• Appreciated the strategic importance of the location of Malta in the Mediterranean, the depth and importance of the Grand Harbour.

  

  Views from Valletta across the Grand Harbour.

• Road the bus and took a ferry to get around, when not walking of course, or been driven around the island by Bruce.
• Bought delicious pastizzi from sidewalk kiosks, ate Maltese sausages, local cheeses and drank a local cold drink called Kinnie.
• Admired the 17thC watchtowers dotted around the island.
• Delighted in a rural 3 generational kitchen and deli in Dingli called Diar il-Bniet, where Bruce bought us their artisanal honey, so special after having seen the 2000 year old apiaries at Xemxija, and we had delicious tarts made from their farm strawberries for afternoon coffee.
• Peeped into the world behind the austere façades, the Secret Garden at Bacchus in Mdina and a stroll around the gardens of Palazzo Parisio in Naxxar, where Cathy has her bookclub – just a little envious of the setting.
• Strolled around the beautiful walled hilltop city of Mdina, taking in the gracious honey coloured buildings. Another Game of Thrones setting at the main gates!
• Heard sparrows nesting in the huge ramparts of Mdina and have just checked Fred's photo, they are new for my European bird list - Spanish Sparrows.
  

  

  Honey-colored buildings of Mdina.

Kersten's and Wedderburn's at play in Malta.