Number 25: An abandoned rural village, Konoba Stori Komin, meeting Berti Tudor and a culinary speciality, the Lamb Peka

The fascination of Malo Grablje

I had been alerted to the marvels of Peka, a Dalmatian culinary speciality by VJ our Split guide and specifically to Berti Tudor of Konoba Stori Komin, which is set in the abandoned village of Malo Grablje, en route to Hvar Town. 

Number 25:

An abandoned rural village, Konoba Stori Komin, meeting Berti Tudor and a culinary speciality, the Lamb Peka

OK, so context needed - a Konoba is a Dalmation eatery,  Stori Komin means "old hearth", Berti Tudor is owner chef and the old hearth is the heart of his family home in Malo Grablje, where he remembers being with his mother, father and grandfather around the hearth for warmth, for light and for the family dinner. 

The small rural village of Malo Grablje though, was abandoned in the 1950's, it's crumbling ruins are being taken over by nature and among his childhood memories and the ruin of his family home, Berti has created his Konoba! 

A reed thin, fast talking, hard drinking and smoking chef who fed us a magnificent feast and entertained us all afternoon.

Making our way to Konona Stori Komin, our Peka awaits us!

After hours of slow cooking our chef removed the peka dish from the coals, lifted the bell shaped lid, added sea salt and dried thyme from the mountains around the village, added more meat juices and our lamb peka was ready!

The four of us were in awe of the simplicity of the dish, the depth of flavour, the melt in the mouth lamb, the delicious potatoes, we ate with gusto, quaffed liters of Berti's house wine, dipped crusty bread into the juices and we were happy, very happy.

An afternoon of culinary magic with Berti, he and Collen shared bee-keeping stories too.

Shutters with attitude, Malo Grablje.

There are moments in any travelers life that you know and deeply appreciate why you leave the comfort of  your home, pack a bag, put up with airports and the challenge of long flights, and navigate different languages and cultures.

And this was one of these moments for Fred and me, spending time with our friends Collen and Sarah, being away from the crowds  in a beautiful remote part of Croatia among the ruins of Malo Grablje, meeting a remarkable man, hearing his story, being fed an authentic meal with the ease and confidence of someone who knows and understands his roots, his heritage and his land. 

It's a harsh and unforgiving landscape and life has not been simple but he can show us a New York Times article from 2011 featuring him and his Konoba and we experience him just the same as the journalist and I have no doubt that he will continue his authentic path.

Number 25 in my year of a hundred different things has shifted something in me and I feel grateful.

A meal to remember: 3 starter plates - cheese, olives, tomato, Dalmation smoked ham (called Prsut); octopus salad; anchovies and capers. Lamb peka. Melted, mild goats cheese with honey. Prosek (sweet red desert wine). Sugared almonds. Turkish coffee.