Sunday 22 October 2023

Finding Truffade: Le Puy-en-Velay

Famous truffade indeed

There is the classic French Gratin Dauphinois which a served as a side dish. It is undoubtedly a treat and a delicious way to serve potatoes.  But when the Australian Masterchef judges say 'take it to the next level' that is when you get close to truffade.

We are in Le Puy-en-Velay ambling around the old village, it's a cold evening and I can sense Fred's nerves about the South Africa vs England RWC semi-final that is looming large. By a small stroke of magic we select a restaurant that is only servicing one hot dish and some salads, and it was the hot dish I had been looking out for, truffade.

A Haute-Loire regional speciality of thinly sliced potatoes smothered in melted Tome fraiche and a regional cheese called Cantal, oven baked in a metal dish with a side of jambon cru and dressed salad leaves. Having spent the day outdoors exploring the Puy pilgrim sites with the wind biting and not having enough layers with me to feel snug, this dish was comfort food heaven and deservedly famous. 

I also found my 'green gold' of the Haute-Loire at the morning market, the also famous Puy lentils which are the only lentils that have their own appellation. 
 











Sidebar: We are in a part of France where rugby holds neither interest nor fascination. We looked at a few sports bars for Fred to enjoy the semi-final and none of them appealed. So we are watching the game on the local TF 1 channel in our apartment, not much rugby atmosphere and a frustrating game. We sneaked into the final.

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