Wednesday 27 September 2023

Fred and a Pope: Pierre-Buffiere, middle of nowhere, France


Our delightful refuge, the Auberge Dupuytren, Pierre-Buffiere


So what do Pope Pius VII and Fred have in common? 

They both overnighted in Pierre-Buffiere.

Fred yesterday and the Pope in 1814, both fleeing (sort off) Paris; I seem to collect these random bits of info along a road trip and I am really not sure what to do with either the photos or the information, so mostly its forget and delete.

What amused me even more was the tourist agenda for our 'village etape', which is an acknowledgement given to villages that offer something different to the standard food or accommodation you would find along the main highways throughout France.

Having just had our time in Paris as a family with a choice of world class places, spaces, museums, gardens, galleries, shopping, restaurants, exhibitions, fan parks - the options are endless and overwhelming, so we settled on our daily highlights, unable to even touch what is on offer.

And it's manic with people.

Roman road and bridge in Pierre-Buffiere
with the hand painted signage
Here in Pierre-Buffiere we were the sole tourists, no security, no queues and no ticketing. Its a gentle amble down to the Breuil River, along a Roman Road to see the Roman bridge; its a visit to the Xth C abbey, special for my quiet reflection time, with its 18 deep-blue enamelled porcelain tiles from 1838 set into the door (photos already deleted); its an ancient church wall with its bricked-in window that is now part of someone's home; its a lovely sunset while having a set menu which once again was a treat. 

And restful country views.

I rarely plan a one nighter on road trips but leaving Paris now and in August; it was just too far to get to our base here in Salies and in August to Italy. And how different my two choices!

The overnight in Beaune was the typical Ibis highway stop, gosh it was a box with a window, we could barely manoeuvre around and certainly could not move at the same time. The food we could find without too much hassle has already slipped my mind into oblivion. 

So how wonderful to have returned to this delightful little village, with its fabric bunting and recycled plastic ornaments everywhere, we were well nourished on every level.