Friday 13 October 2023

The "Pearl of France" revisited: Menton

'Les Rampes de Saint Michel',  the staircase to the Basilica in Menton

My first outing to Menton felt as though I was shucking oysters and not finding the pearl in this so called "Pearl of France". I was weary, it was hot, we kept walking around in circles to find the Basilica, which we had already found and it was closed, then accidentally walked the famous 'les rampes', at that point I realised I was jaded by it all.

I was also so struck that my dear friend Michelle in the US, who completely loves Menton, was going to be in this place in a few weeks time and that we were missing each other. I was almost grumpy with the universe for these bizarre circumstances and poor timing. 

I did the next best thing, asked her to plan my return visit with all her favourites and what makes her love Menton. 

So from her must do's about food and everyday living:

  • I bought the freshest Italian Taggiasca hand pressed virgin olive oil directly from the farmer at the Ventimiglia Mercato Coperto ...
  • I bought his last season lemons from his tree, and I noticed how I felt about these gnarly looking lemons...
  • In Menton I chased down her favourite honey boutique and bought the 'Miel & Citron' as this is the capital of lemon growers...
  • Then down the alley to Maison Herbin for Lemon Marmalade and Fred loved the tart lemonade on sale too...
  • Then the Les Halles Market for fresh produce and an assortment of deli items for our antipasto this evening...
  • Last night we caught the train to Menton and choose our pizza spot. Another foodie treat and better than our pizza choice in Ventimiglia today...
  • And of course gelato, a dark delicious frutti di bosco...
Thanks Mich for introducing me to your French 'pearl', I get it now and I noticed the special umbrella spot...I miss you.


A rugby segue: Cemetery of the Old Château, Menton


Fred flying the flag at the grave of William Webb Ellis

Our first visit to the Cimetiere du Vieux Chateau was for the great views of old town Menton and the port. We meandered all the way up through the historic quarter to this hilltop cemetery, it was hot and humid and we paid scant attention to the graves as we took in the views.

It's only when we got back to our apartment and we were doing some reading up on Menton that we realised the cemetery is something of a pilgrimage site for rugby fans! 

They come to pay their respects at the tomb of William Webb Ellis, legendary inventor of the sport. 

Well, here we are back in Menton, on the Cote d'Azur, and we are visiting a cemetery!

There were some tense moments, once again a hot, humid morning, and no sign of this specific grave. 

An Australian couple noticed our quest and got intrigued and got involved. Talk about a scavenger hunt and guess who won - the Australians, they found the lower level which we had missed and after that it was simple to find the gravesite. 

The grave is festooned with all sorts of rugby memorabilia and Fred was so chuffed to be flying his South African flag, he was also quietly asking for divine intervention for this weekends' game - South Africa vs France in the quarter-finals.